The Salon des Mille et Une Nuits: gilded Moorish arches, twisted columns and red velvet seating beneath a chandelier8.4

MaisonSouquet

Rue de Bruxelles, ParisSince 2015

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  • 2015 Opened
  • 20 rooms and suites
  • 10 m private pool

Behind thered lanterns.

Maison Souquet has a selective memory. The house on rue de Bruxelles spent most of the twentieth century as an ordinary hotel, but the people who remade it in 2015 were interested in a much shorter chapter. According to the hotel's account, a Madame Souquet ran a discreet brothel here from 1905 to 1907. Jacques Garcia and the owners gathered antiques that dated no later than that final year, then furnished the place as if the intervening century had never happened. It is an extravagant way of editing a building's biography.

Two red lanterns mark the entrance, just around the corner from the Moulin Rouge. Inside, the effect is immediate and rather overwhelming. The first salon is a confection of gilded Moorish arches, twisted columns and velvet. It wasn't made for this hotel at all: the room was originally created in 1895 for a Belgian aristocrat's house in Brussels, then brought here and painstakingly adapted. You could spend a long time inspecting it. More happily, you can also sit down. A hotel this richly decorated might have been unbearable if everyone treated the furniture as museum exhibits.

Beyond it lies the Salon des Petits Bonheurs, a dark, wood-panelled bar with a fireplace, old books and the kind of low lighting that makes another cocktail sound sensible. Then comes the winter garden, where the room finally seems to take a breath among ivy and jasmine. The salons welcome people who aren't staying here, so a drink can turn into a rather enjoyable evening of watching strangers discover the place for the first time. There is no separate formal restaurant, but breakfast, lunch and dinner can all be served in these rooms. You need not go out simply because you're hungry.

Upstairs, the fantasy becomes more personal, and the practical choices become important. The rooms take their names from famous courtesans, though women such as La Païva and La Belle Otero lived on a rather grander scale than the original establishment appears to have done. Some bedrooms are inspired by Napoleon III, others by Chinese or Indian interiors; not a square inch seems to have escaped Garcia's attention. A Deluxe is only sixteen to eighteen square metres, with a bath or shower depending on the room. All that velvet and dark wood can make a small space feel smaller. A Junior Suite, at twenty-six to twenty-eight square metres, gives you somewhere to sit and is a much more forgiving choice for a stay of several nights. The two-bedroom suites, at fifty-five square metres, make more sense for friends travelling together. Ask which particular room you're getting: the styles and bathrooms differ considerably.

The best surprise requires going downstairs again. Behind a closed door is the Salon d'Eau, a ten-metre pool beneath a deep-blue vaulted ceiling scattered with gold stars. Beside it is a hammam. Instead of sharing it with whoever happens to arrive, residents can reserve the whole place privately for an hour each day, included in the stay. That is an unusually satisfying privilege for a hotel of this size, and perhaps a better expression of luxury than all the velvet upstairs. Book the hour early, particularly if you have a preferred time.

The address comes with a personality of its own. Pigalle is nearby, with the Moulin Rouge's queues and plenty of evening noise, yet rue de Bruxelles feels unexpectedly withdrawn. Blanche métro station is close, and Montmartre and the cafés of South Pigalle are easy to explore. The rooms are dark by design, the entry categories expensive for their size, and anyone wanting bright contemporary minimalism should choose another door. This is much more persuasive for a romantic weekend than for ten days of work.

The hotel's celebrated courtesans are part of a seductive invented world, not a documentary record of Madame Souquet's clientele. That distinction is worth keeping in mind. Garcia has made the old story impossibly sumptuous; the pleasure of staying here is that, once you've admired the set, someone hands you a drink, shows you to your room and lets you have the pool to yourself. For a couple of nights, the illusion is quite enough.

One hour a day

The Salon d'Eau, to yourselves.

The presentation salon

In the hotel's telling, the Salon des Petits Bonheurs was where courtesans and clients met over champagne before slipping upstairs by a hidden door. Today it is the cocktail bar, open from 17:00 to 1:00 and to anyone who books, with chess and backgammon on hand. Look up from the banquettes: about eighty carved men's heads run through the panelling, and the twelve-branched chandelier ends in female figures. The fireplace is Belgian marble.

Lunch in the winter garden

The hotel calls the winter garden its "after" salon, where, in its story, visitors rested before returning to the city. For a guest today it is the most practical room downstairs: lunch is served in the salons from 12:00 to 15:00 and dinner from 18:00 to 1:00, and this is the lightest place to take either. Beyond it lies a small smokers' garden with almond-green trellis walls and a swan-necked bench, the house's own patch of open air.

Six suites, six courtesans

There are only six Junior Suites, named La Belle Otero, La Castiglione, La Païva I and II and Liane de Pougy I and II, each in its own period: Napoleon III, Empire, eighteenth century, Indian or Art Deco. What the extra money buys is a living area with a writing desk and a bathroom with a bath, a walk-in shower or both, depending on the suite. Because each is unique, name the one you want when booking direct, where the choice of décor is promised.

The hour that is yours

Each day, residents may close the Salon d'Eau to everyone else for an hour at a time of their choosing, included in the stay; outside guests pay €200 for the same privilege. Slots start on the hour between 8:00 and 20:00, so ask for yours when booking. The ten-metre pool, the hammam and a treatment room sit beneath a cobalt vault scattered with gold-leaf stars, a design taken from a salon at the Villa Stuck in Munich.

At a glance

Where

10 rue de Bruxelles, 9th arrondissement, near the Moulin Rouge on the edge of Montmartre; Blanche and Place de Clichy (line 2) a short walk

The house
Opened in 2015 by the Collection Maisons Particulières, owned by Sylviane Sanz and Yoni Aïdan; interiors by Jacques Garcia, after the hotel's account of a brothel run here by a Madame Souquet from 1905 to 1907
Rooms
20 rooms and suites, each named after a courtesan: Deluxe 16 to 18 m², bath or walk-in shower; Junior Suite 26 to 28 m², living area and writing desk; Two-Bedroom Suite 55 m²
Eating and drinking
No separate restaurant; three salons: Mille et Une Nuits, Petits Bonheurs and the winter garden; breakfast 7:00 to 11:00, lunch 12:00 to 15:00, dinner 18:00 to 1:00, cocktails from 17:00; open to outside guests
Wellbeing
Salon d'Eau beneath a cobalt vault with gold-leaf stars: 10-metre pool, hammam, treatment room; daily private hour included for residents, €200 an hour for non-residents; massages and facials from €220
Practical
Direct bookings: choice of room décor, early check-in and late check-out subject to availability, a guaranteed Salon d'Eau slot; check-in and check-out times not published, confirm with the hotel

Why this one

  1. A pool for two.

    Ten metres and a hammam, privately, every day.

  2. Salons that feed you.

    Breakfast at 7:00, dinner until 1:00.

  3. Twenty rooms, twenty names.

    Choose the décor when booking direct.

The Edit Notes

What a booking site will not tell you.

  1. Book direct and choose the décor.

    Direct bookings promise a personalised choice of room décor, plus early check-in and late check-out subject to availability. That matters here, because the fourteen Deluxe rooms each carry a different name and inspiration, from Napoleon III to India, and some have a bath while others have only a walk-in shower. State the style and the bathroom you want when booking, and ask for it to be confirmed in writing.

  2. Fix the Salon d'Eau hour early.

    Residents may privatise the Salon d'Eau for sixty minutes every day at no charge; non-residents pay €200 for the same hour. The online request form offers hourly starts from 8:00 to 20:00 and is framed for two people, so the hour is shaped for a couple. Ask for a preferred slot for each day of the stay when booking, rather than on arrival. Massages and facials are extra, from €220 for 55 minutes.

  3. Reserve a salon table for dinner.

    The salons serve breakfast from 7:00 to 11:00, lunch from 12:00 to 15:00, dinner from 18:00 to 1:00 and cocktails from 17:00. They are open to outside guests, so on busy evenings residents share them with people from the neighbourhood. The salon booking form takes parties of one to eight. The French press kit also lists room service around the clock, worth confirming if a quiet dinner upstairs appeals.

  4. Check how the 55 m² suite is built.

    The Two-Bedroom Suites are listed under the names La Païva I and II and Liane de Pougy I and II, the same names used for Junior Suites, and the official page lists a double bed and a bathroom without saying how many of each. Before booking one for friends, ask whether both bedrooms have their own bathroom and a double bed, and whether the two halves share a door or a corridor.

The price question

The hotel's own press kit quotes Deluxe rooms from €450, Junior Suites from €750 and Two-Bedroom Suites from €1,500. At the entry level that buys 16 to 18 m² of dense, dark decoration, which is a great deal of money per square metre. What the price also carries is the hour alone in the Salon d'Eau and salons that serve food from breakfast to 1:00. Book a Junior Suite and the sums look fairer; for space or light, they do not.

What the money buys

  • A ten-metre pool and hammam reserved for one party at a time.
  • Three salons serving food and drink from 7:00 to 1:00.
  • Montmartre and South Pigalle on foot.

What it leaves out

  • Space and daylight in the Deluxe rooms.
  • A separate restaurant or a gym.
  • Salons kept for residents alone.

Who it suits

Book it for two or three nights as a couple, in a Junior Suite, with the Salon d'Eau hour fixed in advance. Look elsewhere for a long work stay, a bright room or a quiet street at night.

Who should spend elsewhere

  • Maison Proust

    The sister house on rue de Picardie in the 3rd, with its own Salon d'Eau: a ten-metre pool and a hammam reserved by residents.

  • La Fantaisie

    On rue Cadet in the 9th: 63 rooms and 10 suites around a garden, with a rooftop bar and a spa.

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8.4

Excellent.

The Edit score, out of 10.

No. 31 in ParisAll of Paris, graded

How the grade is made

The Edit score is the editor's grade for the level of the hotel, out of ten. It weighs what the outside judges say (Michelin Keys, Forbes Travel Guide, World's 50 Best Hotels, Atout France palace status, La Liste), what changed in the last two years and what guests write now; where these and the editor's own judgement disagree, the editor decides. A spa with a pool worth booking for adds up to two tenths.

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The Salon des Mille et Une Nuits: gilded Moorish arches, twisted columns and red velvet seating beneath a chandelier

The Salon des Mille et Une Nuits: gilded Moorish arches, twisted columns and red velvet seating beneath a chandelier